Embroidery course to keep traditional art alive

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Deep concentration is required embroidering the ‘Keringkam’.

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KUCHING: In line with the Sarawak government’s agenda to preserve its arts, culture and heritage sites, Centre of Technical Excellence Sarawak (Centexs) plays an important role in ensuring the art of embroidery and weaving is not lost with time.

Today, the production of these traditional clothing including the making of Keringkam, and Kain Songket is slowly dying, especially among the younger generation.

Hence, Centexs which offers digital and technical courses is also making effort to offer a course in Fashion Technology which covers the making of Keringkam and Kain Songket.

Keringkam is well known among the Malay community and an important item of Sarawak Malay heritage.

One of the students from Centexs concentrates while embroidering the ‘Keringkam’. Photos: Mohd Alif Noni

Traditionally, Malay women in Sarawak would embroider a gold thread on veils for important occasions such as weddings, engagements and other special functions.

The head cover for wedding is normally in red with gold embroidery on a fabric called kain rubia.

During the 14th to 18th centuries, the weaving tradition in Sarawak begun from the Sri Vijaya Empire to the Brunei Sultanate until the present-day Sarawak.

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In the 19th century, Datu Isa (wife of Datu Bandar) introduced Keringkam and Songket to Ranee Margaret Brooke, wife of the second White Rajah Charles Brooke.

Ranee Margaret Brooke (second right) wearing a traditional ‘Baju Kurung’ and the beautiful piece of Keringkam. Photo taken from Cats City Hornbill Land blog.

Locals and European women in Sarawak then admired the beautiful pieces of Keringkam worn by the Ranee.

A book title “The Sarawakiana Series-Culture and Heritage, Sarawak Malay Culture” written by Kamil Salem said the word Keringkam is not found in the Malay dictionary but it means a gold or silver embroidery.

He quoted from a source that one of the Keringkam pieces Ranee Margaret worn was produced by a local Malay embroidery craftsman from Kampung Sungai Bedil Besar.

A piece of Keringkam went through at least seven stages to complete.

In the early years, most of the women embroiders in Kuching were from villages along the bank of Sarawak River which were surrounded by fruit trees, vegetable gardens, shrubs and thick undergrowth.

Most of the motifs and patterns embroidered on the Keringkam were influenced by the environment including bamboo shoots, beans, roses, orchids, bunga kenanga (ylang-ylang) and bunga tanjung (a type of climbing plant).

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Patience and deep concentration are required embroidering the ‘Keringkam’.

The price for a piece of Keringkam would depend on the number of motifs made, type and length of gold thread used and the time to complete it, which could cost a few thousands ringgit.

Those interested in Keringkam especially the younger generation are encouraged to take up either the basic or advanced course, where they can learn the embroidery techniques for the head cover by hand at Centexs.

Enrollment is welcome for those above 18 years old. There is no age limit.

Those wishing to know more may contact Centexs at 082-846408, or visit its Kuching branch at Jalan Sultan Tengah, Rampangi, Santubong.

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