Nostalgia for a vanished fishing community

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‘Kotak’ boats in the olden days.

KUCHING: Mentioning ‘Pak Tik Keh’ or Blacksmith Road, as well as the fishing village at the exit of Jalan Padungan, which runs alongside the Sarawak River here, would likely evoke a blank reaction from most people, except for the older generation.

Few among the living today can recall that almost 50 years ago, there existed a thriving fishing village at Bintawa, where Heng Hua fishermen and their families resided. It was a shanty village with houses lacking proper roofs, sanitation, and modern facilities.

Along the same road, blacksmiths, mostly Hakka and some Heng Hua people, worked in their makeshift huts.

Today, the place has undergone a remarkable transformation and is almost unrecognisable compared to the old settlements.

The old fleet of fishing ‘kotak’ boats has vanished from the river. In their place, several modern high-rise condominiums and a contemporary township have emerged.

The most striking change is the disappearance of the fishing boats that were once the main source of livelihood for the fishing community.

While the small boats are gone, a few individuals still cling to their traditional trade, while others have transitioned to using larger trawler boats.

Even the temple where the fishermen used to worship has vanished.

The Kuching South City Council resettled the people to a new site in Bintawa, constructing housing estates for them. However, a replica of a ‘kotak’ boat, donated by the Heng Hua association, remains strategically placed at the centre of the Bintawa roundabout, serving as a reminder of the bygone era of Sarawak’s Henghua fishermen and their fishing trade.

Although the ‘kotak’ boats have disappeared, a few individuals continue to engage in fishing, some now utilising larger trawler boats.

For Poh Ted Ann, who grew up in the village, life as a child was filled with bittersweet memories, mostly marked by hardship. It reminded him of his family’s struggles and a lifestyle that had vanished forever, not only for him but for the entire community.

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Growing up in a fishing village during the 1960s, he witnessed the transformation not only of the village itself but also of the people and their living conditions, who once relied on the sea for their livelihood.

Now a successful entrepreneur, Ted Ann reflects on his past when he lived in a small room in a rented house, devoid of proper sanitation and essential services, living in poverty.

“Life in the village was tough for my late father, who earned a meagre income to feed the family,” Ted Ann recalled.

“To reminisce about those times, it was difficult growing up in such harsh conditions, with my five brothers and sisters crammed into a tiny rented room. “It was a life far removed from the better life he and hundreds of others once lived and worked for.

“That area was a shanty town, lacking proper modern roofing like today, with dilapidated houses. “There were some Heng Hua and mostly Hakka blacksmiths plying their trade in rundown shelters and huts.

“To me, it felt like a lost world, where the main forms of livelihood were fishing and the blacksmith business.

“My family was among the first to move away from Petanak Road to the resettled area in Bintawa in 1976.” In the late 1970s, a representative of the Sarawak United People’s Party (SUPP), Tan  Meng Chong, with assistance from the town council then, played a significant role in helping improve the living conditions in the village.

Reflecting on those times, Ted Ann highlighted the hardships they faced, with his father spending months at sea without communication with the family.

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“I remember enlisting the help of RTM Chinese service chief, Lee Boon Woon, to transmit radio messages to him. He carried a battery-powered transistor radio,” Ted Ann recalled.

“Remember, it was a time without internet, mobile phones. We had radio only, and we had to endure the long wait.

“I still recall incidents of danger at sea.

Once, a foreign fisherman and his helper went missing for weeks. When a passing boat spotted their boat drifting, they were found dead.

“The fishermen used to shout at each other when they spoke in order to be heard above the sounds of the waves and wind.

“At sea, anything could happen, from running out of food and water to getting lost. They used small ‘kotak’ boats, so the risks were significant.

“I know what hardship is all about, and thankfully, in my life, I had the opportunity to study at the nearby St Teresa’s School at Padungan and joined the Boys Scouts. It taught me confidence and social skills, helping me seize opportunities for a better life.

Ted Ann rarely accompanied his father to sea, as he once tried but found himself seasick and unable to endure the rough and tough life of a fisherman.

His parents, too, discouraged him from following in his father’s footsteps, urging him to pursue education and find a different path in life.

Ted Ann heeded his parents’ advice and focused on his studies.

He excelled academically and eventually pursued higher education. With determination and hard work, he established a successful business and achieved financial stability. Looking back, he acknowledges the transformation that has taken place in the area.

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The fishing village has seen modern developments, and the traditional way of life has largely disappeared.

While progress and modernisation have brought many positive changes, Ted Ann feels a sense of nostalgia for the old fishing village and the tight-knit community that once thrived there.

He cherishes the memories of his childhood, despite the hardships, and appreciates the lessons he learned from that time. Today, Ted Ann remains connected to his roots and actively contributes to the community.

He supports initiatives that aim to preserve the cultural heritage and history of the fishing village and its people.

The disappearance of the fishing boats and the transformation of the area serve as a reminder of the changing times and the need to adapt.

Ted Ann believes that embracing change while honouring the past is important for the continued growth and development of the community.

As for the old fishing village and the blacksmiths who once worked there, their stories live on through the memories of those who experienced that era.

The replica of the ‘kotak’ boat at the Bintawa roundabout stands as a testament to their legacy, ensuring that their contributions are not forgotten. In conclusion, the fishing village at Bintawa, also known as ‘Pak Tik Keh’ or Blacksmith Road, has undergone a remarkable transformation over the years.

The once-thriving community of Heng Hua fishermen and blacksmiths has given way to modern developments and a different way of life.

While the old fishing village is no longer recognisable, the memories and experiences of those who lived there continue to shape their lives and contribute to the community’s heritage.

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