Generational tradition of making homemade snacks

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Pauline Sim poses for a photograph outside her shop located at Padungan.

As the Chinese New Year approaches in a few weeks, “Bak Kwa” has become one of the most popular and highly sought-after snacks.

Bak Kwa, which means dried meat, barbecued (BBQ) pork, or pork jerky, comes from the Hokkien dialect.

In the busy streets of Padungan, a shop managed by its third-generation owner is getting ready to sell their traditionally homemade Bak Kwa.

The art of making Bak Kwa has been passed down through generations, starting with the owner’s grandfather.

Today, the family continues the tradition of making homemade Bak Kwa, and the process takes place at a factory located on Green Road.

Pauline Sim, the owner of Hap Chen Hian Food Supplier in Padungan, said that they initially offered traditional Bak Kwa flavours but they have expanded their options over time. They now offer BBQ Dong Po (Dried Pork Belly), BBQ Spicy Dried Beef, BBQ Honey Sliced Dried Pork, and Chicken.

“We have been selling Bak Kwa and Satay for over 50 years, since my grandfather’s time. The Bak Kwa is specially handmade and carefully grilled using charcoal, following the traditional way,” she told New Sarawak Tribune.

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She added that her father is currently overseeing the operations at the factory, which is busy preparing Bak Kwa for the upcoming Chinese New Year.

“My father takes care of the factory. He grills the meat with the help of some staff,” she said.

Sim explained that making Bak Kwa is a time-consuming process that spans several hours. The drying phase alone takes about four hours to complete.

“In the beginning, large pieces of meat are partially cooked and then sliced into smaller pieces. The meat is then smoked until it reaches 70 per cent doneness. Finally, the meat is grilled over charcoal until it turns slightly reddish or golden brown,” she said.

She emphasised that the crucial part is to ensure that the meat has a BBQ and smoky aroma.

At Sim’s shop in Padungan, there are already a few Bak Kwa available for purchase, neatly packed and ready for customers to choose from.

“During Chinese New Year, we usually prepare around 2,000 kilograms (kg) of Bak Kwa in all flavours. Afterwards, it will be supplied to my shop and other retail shops,” she added.

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Sim mentioned that during the peak period, customers flock to her shop to buy Chinese New Year cookies and Bak Kwa.

“Despite the economic challenges, our business is doing well, almost on par with last year. We are grateful for our loyal customers who choose our Bak Kwa,” she said.

When asked about a potential increase in Bak Kwa prices due to the rising cost of living, Sim said they had only slightly increased the price last year.

“Last year, we raised the price due to the rising pork prices. However, this year we decided to maintain the price. Even though the cost of pork has gone up, we want to ease the burden on people and encourage them to buy more by not raising the price further. We want our customers to be happy,” she said.

Depending on the amount purchased, Bak Kwa is sold per gram or kilogram. Sim also mentioned that their Bak Kwa is freshly made without any preservatives, so it can be kept in the fridge to maintain its freshness.
When asked why Bak Kwa is a must-have snack during Chinese New Year, Sim admitted that she wasn’t exactly sure of the reason behind it.

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“I don’t know why either. But I think people eat Bak Kwa during Chinese New Year because the Chinese community mainly consumes meat and fish during this period. So Bak Kwa represents meat, symbolizing that throughout the year, families will have an abundance of meat and good food to eat,” she explained with a laugh.

On the historical front, Bak Kwa is believed to have originated in China’s Fujian province. Meat was considered a luxury back then and was preserved for consumption on special occasions.

It is also reported that Chinese immigrants who settled in Malaysia and Singapore during the 19th and 20th centuries adopted the technique of grilling meat over charcoal.

The deep red colour of Bak Kwa is considered auspicious in Chinese tradition, symbolizing good luck and believed to ward off negative energies.

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