Taste of Tradition

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Food serves as a lens through which one can understand and appreciate different cultures. Ramadan bazaars hold significance as they attract not just Malays but also other races.

Ramadan Bazaars: A fusion of flavours and cultures

FOOD is a language that’s significant in cultural bonding, a tapestry that brings different people together. And in Sarawak, the notion of food celebrates the multi-cultural diversity we have here with each festivity a feast awaiting. As food is the bridge to understanding one another, the annually held Ramadan bazaar is the perfect link to the Malay’s food heritage.

Gathered at these bazaars are the Malay-Muslims and the Indian-Muslims offering a variety of delicacies for buka puasa (breaking the fast). Once a business idea for the Muslims to purchase food instead of cooking during the fasting period, bazaars have now become popular spots frequented by people of various races.

Upon entering the bazaar’s vicinity, shouts promoting food could be heard from one end to another, left and right. People started to flock to the stalls as early as 4pm and would go on until it was almost time to buka puasa. Packets of ice-cold sweet drinks, kuih-muih, vegetables, meat, biryani and many others are a common sight here.

Among the common array of delicacies, there are a few selections that cannot be seen on normal days. The drinks available at the bazaars were also imbued with a creative touch as sellers infused different local flavours into one. One such example is a drink that combines cendol, gula apong and corn — different flavours merged to become a refreshing drink after a long day of fasting.

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However, having been to numerous food festivals and bazaars, I noticed that the prices at these bazaars remain affordable. I could get satisfied with food as cheap as RM2, with the most expensive average at RM15. Understandably, the food does not lean towards creativity, but rather to satiate after a long day, nonetheless, it is an introduction to the Malay cuisine here in Sarawak.

For myself, I have been visiting Ramadan bazaars since a young age. I remember my father would purchase a variety of food there. He would never forget to buy a pack of drink from the stalls. Now that I am older and have children, I want to pass on the significant core memory of visiting the bazaars during the fasting month to instil the cultural practice in my children.

Being raised in a Chinese family, my children are familiar with Chinese cuisine. But every so often, I would introduce them to food from other cultures too. I believed that through this introduction, they would be able to know Sarawak and its people better. Though, a beautiful echo behind the meaning of the fasting period, the sight of other races respecting the Muslims here is amazing — and that should be upheld.

What I purchase at the bazaar

Returning from the bazaar in Satok with bag after bag of food, I was elated by the sight. There was a good array at the bazaar and the prices were affordable too. I was delighted by the sight of the kuih-muih and I searched for foods that are not sold on usual days.

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Kebab ayam/daging madu is a must have each year. It is minced meat mixed with their in-house sauce, sandwiched between a soft, flat bread. Priced at RM5 for the chicken selection and RM6 for the beef, the meat is sweet and peppery. A bite together with the soft bread that melts in the mouth is a match made in heaven.

Next, I stumbled upon akok. I was confused at the sight of its name. It looks like an egg? Upon internet searches, I found that it is a common kuih sold in Kelantan and Terengganu. Wanting to understand the delicacy better, I bought a box for RM5.

Made with flour, sugar, eggs and coconut milk, the texture was soft and melty. The ones I got were not that sweet, but sweet enough to want more. It has this addictive quality to it as it melts in the mouth. I will miss this kuih when the bazaars end unless I see it being sold, I would dash to get it.

A creative touch, the meatball cheese with mashed potatoes that I bought for RM6 at the bazaar was interesting. Although the flavours are familiar, the combination of the three creates a fulfilling snack. Peppery and sweet gravy poured over mashed potatoes and meatballs, topped with a slice of cheese, tasted great when eaten warm.

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Lastly, the kuih jala loaded with chicken and potato curry that I bought at the bazaar reminded me of a long-ago purchase at a kopitiam. To me, it’s an interesting twist on the commonly found kuih Jala with shredded coconut fillings. Though I know this kuih is common among the Malay community, I can’t seem to find a piece of it where I live.

I like this curry-filled kuih jala because as you bite into it, the soft exterior bursts with curry. It’s something simple but addictive. I was delighted to see it at the bazaar, having paid RM2.50 for four pieces in a box. As it was the last box, I grabbed it as soon as I could.

Overall, I enjoy going to Ramadan bazaars because of the variety of choices and affordable prices. I was overjoyed to come across unfamiliar foods, and some of them served as a gateway to a deeper understanding of the Malay community here. I was also excited to find out that the foods sold at these bazaars were creative, and that some sellers went out of their way to sell food that is not commonly found in Sarawak.

In my opinion, food — apart from conversation — is the universal medium for fostering cross-cultural understanding. Knowing about how people eat can provide insight into how they have lived throughout time.

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